Projectors

Best Projector For Large Conference Room

best projector for large conference room
Written by Robert Smith

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Welcome tactical force and Imam today I’m going to be installing this projector up there today I’m going to be installing the projector on the ceiling I’m going to do this video a little bit differently from usual what.

Best Projector For Large Conference Room

I normally do is massively edit stuff and speed bits up and everything just so you don’t go insane on this one it’s going to be more or less completely unedited so you’re going to see all of the blue pairs all of the mistakes that are made you’re going to see the job from beginning to end more or less other than for when I have to move the camera so I’ll probably have to move the camera quite a bit but you’re going to see more or less the whole job with no edits no speeding up the footage or anything just you can get a proper idea of how long a job like this will take I think I’ll get this done in about 15 minutes I think but we shall see I’ll take you quickly through what I need for the job first .

and to be honest a lot that the time has already been spent in preparation kind of work and out distances and all that sort of things so I’ll take you through what I’ve got to the job and and then you can watch it to do it see how long it actually takes right so obviously I’ve got the actual projector here which is a BenQ 1070 which is a barely ok middle-of-the-road killing the projector we’ve got the ceiling mount here which is in two parts a bit that actually goes on the .

ceiling and the bits left cause on the projector this ceiling mount cost about 10 quid I’m not a one for spendin fortunes on stuff I know you get ceiling mounts are much much more expensive than that for many hundreds of pounds at the end of the day it’s a bit of metal this projector will cover this in a minute with this projector and all weighs about three kilos of error votes this ceiling mount made of steel it’s not aluminium it’s say it’s steel that ain’t .

going to have any problems holding three kilos no problems art or as I say that mount was about ten quid I have here a twelve and a half meter HDMI cable again you will be advised that you need to spend many hundreds of pounds on an HDMI cable no you don’t this was ten quid if it doesn’t work I will honestly let you know but I can guarantee you it’ll be absolutely fine you do actually a little bit careful on cheaper cables sometimes the ends aren’t as robust as the .

more expensive cables but at the end of the day once it’s run through the ball and plugged in you’re never going to be touching it again so as long as you test it once you’ve got it all connected or this will be absolutely fine at the end of the day it’s a digital signal that’s gone through it’s not an analogue signal could either work so it doesn’t work and for. 

the circuit encode on a cable I’m creating chances I’ve then got an HDMI splitter this literally just has one in two L because I need to get basically I need to get the signal from the telly to the projector what I’m actually doing is I’m taking the speed out the back of the amp which goes into the input here and it splits it into two outputs this is an active unit in other words it’s powered so you get a little power unit to go with it that’s fine because it’s going to go .

behind the unwearable plug in and then this big long table of plug into that gorgeous detector that’s just a power cable for the projector and may or may not use that one I made make a custom one and most importantly we’ve got the instruction manual here now I’m just going to quickly run you through the key thing is that you’re going to have .

to work out before you start this project but the manual other projector here has a table of what’s known as the thrall distance for the protector this is really the most important thing in setting all of this up right hopefully in readers saw because I’m in the UK which has a crazy kind of metric imperial cross over the size of the screen is measured in .

interest and then we’re going to measure the distance from the screen to the projector in millimeters what you’re going to do so I’ve got a 90 inch screen which is here some look and down here to check the minimum and maximum distance I can have the projector from the screen now I’ve already kind of worked this out because you need to base .

you screened and you project the purchase so that they are obviously match up for the size of room because otherwise you could end up with either too big or too small picture for your screen so I already know that I’m in the ballpark for this right so I’ve got a 90 inch screen and remember we’re measuring on the diagonal of the screen so .

we’re going to follow this line across and we’re looking at the minimum projection distance and the maximum projection distance minimum is 2278 millimeters which is we’ll round it up to two point three meters and the maximum is two thousand nine hundred sixty two millimeters which I’ll round down to two point nine so we’re looking between two point three two point nine meters and we’ve also got a lowest projection height as well this is .

more for if you’ve got the projector higher than the screen and I don’t have the projector higher than the screen so I don’t need to worry about that figure it is the only things that I need to really think about are the minimum and maximum systems so I’ve put a mark on the ceiling of those two points and as long as I’ll install the projector .

somewhere in between those two it’ll be fine the other thing that I’ve already done and marked in advanced is the center point to the screen on the opposite wall so I know that the center of the lens is pretty much on the center of the screen pointing to the center of the screen so I’ve already marked all of that out and now I’m ready to start the install so you’re going to see the job from that point onwards without any edit I just want to show you is well quickly .

the weight of this projector just a sanity check about 2.8 kilos for the projector itself and then I’ll also take and work out the weight of the bracket so the bit that goes on the ceiling is about 0.3 of a kilo so point for the rounded up so we’re looking at 3.2 filo so far and then a bit that goes on the projector itself there another 200 grams so we’re looking about 3.4 kilos now a lot of people are going to panic thinking oh this is quite heavy and putting it onto a .

plaster board ceiling it’s just going to be okay well I’m going to use these fittings and I know from looking in the best for these fittings they’ll hold about 15 kilos each so I’ll know from these four fittings I can handle about sixty kilos of weight on the ceiling now don’t get it wrong I wouldn’t trust putting 60 kilos of weight on a small surface area of ceiling like that the likelihood is that section of ceiling would just come down but three and a half to the point is three. 

and a half kilos will be absolutely fine if it’s not and it comes down I shall let you know right I’m going to crack on with a job let’s see how we’ll get on hopefully I’ll not hit any pipes or anything but if I do you’re going to see literally every part of this job uncut footage right so I was saying before CSS enter mark so that mark here gone down the wall marks where the center of the of the screen is so I’ve got a big square here which I’m going to use to just bring that .

mark out a bit only using very faint lines here and remember that’s not necessarily the center of the bracket that’s the center of the lens and we’ll work that out in a minute we then got and I’ve marked my maximum distance here maximum throw distance is a little mark here and the minimum is a little mark all the way of PA so the lens the front of the lens can be anything between that and that so I don’t want it too far forward because I don’t want it like .

right in the middle of the room but at the same time I don’t want it too close to the absolute limit so I’m going to just bring it in a little bit just to give us a little bit of leeway and that’s what this little market table is so this is going to be the front of the lens where this bit of team is so that’s what we’re aiming for right so I’ve obviously have already unboxed the bracket and everything and these brackets these cheeky brackets they normally come with four arms on them and you can adjust these arms to fit any kind of their projector or more or less any kind of projector this projector only has three screw holes on it which is fairly common and so all I’ve done is I’ve kind of loosened these .

little bolts and these bolts here and with the allen key that you gave with it and put them in the right place so that I can get the bracket more or less in the middle of the projector so I don’t want it so that this because the way this works you see once that’s on there it just hooks onto this bit the bracket like that and then you can alter the angles and stuff to like threw it up afterwards which is great but you want it so that it’s hanging more or less you don’t want. 

it like off the center of gravity if that makes sense so I’ve tried to kind of maneuver ever everything to get this bit as close to the center of the projector as possible not the center of the lens the center is projected because what otherwise it’ll be inclined to light train lean to one side which we don’t want so all will then do is are these yeah okay then do its just screw these in you get the screws with the bracket most projectors are fairly standard with the screw sizes but not all of them are it’s a slightly awkward one because it’s underneath that bitch I’m just going to .

feed the screw in like that okay and then I’m just going to tighten either you don’t have to be crazy tight you know they’re only going into I think they’re brass fittings on the other end so you know brass is quite soft you doing it you don’t want to thread it you want it tight enough so it’s not going to come loose of its own accord there we go that’s fine and then as I say this is going to go on like that and you can see that hanging pretty well you know there’s my fingers more or less in the middle of the bracket and it’s not inclined to point up or down us hanging all of its own .

accord fairly level and remember we can afterwards we can tighten all this stuff up too to level it up properly so what I now need to do is get this lens in the middle of that line and work out where the bracket needs to go work out where these halls need to go okay so all I’ve done I’ve marked where that screw holes gone and that’s enough to kind of work everything else open there I’ve got and remember what I’m doing I’m lining up the middle of the lens with this mark that I’ve got here I just want to double check on the end of the lens I’ve actually probably got .

a little bit on the car buck probably bring it forward a little bit yeah all right the rep once I’ve done that I can do the rest without the projector attached to it it’s not easy or not up at that angle and marking evidence so okay girlfriend but there so we’ve got the front screw hallmarked now all I’m doing is making sure the edge of that bracket is in line with it’s parallel to that line there so and now I can mark everything up so I’ve got one one there all right .

applause I am going to use a detector but to be honest there’s not a lot of point because I haven’t got much option but to go there so even if there is something there I’m going to work out things all the way around this length just a quick check okay we’re seeing clear it sounds like what hollow all the way around there which is fine right so  the first thing I’m going to do watch your eyes for the dose I’m going to do for smaller holes with a masonry bit let me .

just do that the reason I’ve done that so I can have a little feel for what’s up there so you can either use a screw driver or I can feel pretty well with a drill whether or not that hittin anything it’s not masonry bit are generally nice and blunt so if there is a pipe or a cable it’s hopefully not going to go through it I’m pretty confident that we’re fine there and feel that clear right and then I’m going to go once I’m happy that that’s clear I’m going in with my .

slightly bigger haul that I need for the fit I  know we someone’s probably going to ask why on earth so this is an 8 mil masonry bit and I like to have quite a tight fitting on the on these type of better plugs so all I do is are going with an 8 and then just move the drill around a bit to get a slightly bigger hole if I go in with a 10 I find it too loose and I’ve got a 9 and don’t think so we’ll get the fittings  would relieve sort of Britain’s to use the second tool you meet the just winder screwed back a little bit before you put them in and push it up that’s just perfect fit . 

I  okay now I need the setting tool to set them in and take this bit of tape down now and I can also wipe all the marks of sealant as well cuz I don’t need them anymore coarsely these setting tools by the way you can get a cheap one that lasts you for about ten holes before it breaks you can get a decent one this is a decent one at customer fifty quid I think and they ain’t gonna break I’ve used it for Taoism to pause right just clean these marks off don’t they doing any more I’m going to leave a little bit of this one just the one I’m putting that actual. 

projector up I can use a visit a reference man II wasn’t screwdriver cop I’m a screw-up oh right don’t think this has a front off back at the greedily thank you sir oh poor right I’m going to need some slightly bigger washers on these screws so they don’t go through the woods I’ve got some washers here and I’m just going to get one in to start with protectively and then I’ll do the rest it’s worth in with these same settings which are really really good for heavier stuff on plasterboard of drywall and just be careful that you don’t cross thread them when you’re putting .

them in if you do your knuckler fittings and you have to take the whole thing well you’re basically you’ve got an unpleasant seriously break the bit  but that’s not tight at all I’m doing is taking up the slack so okay I wish I hadn’t rubbed up mark away no because now I don’t have a reference anymore so whether or not about its brat it’s straight so balls  so all I’m trying to do is just because there’s plenty adjustment in these brackets and just wanting them one the whole thing parallel to that align made these to obtain views take them up note again .

don’t over tighten them you want them tight that tight so they’re not going to fall out but not too tight again you can damage the fitting of your tape sit right Phil now look and get rid of them total marks this thing careful not to rub all the paint off the seat all right so all I’m going to do I’m going to switch over to a hex bit on my screwdriver because it’s easier now I can’t find I mean obviously we want this level to that way I think we just do with a little .

screw in the print here this one fit  that’s good pop of washer on it that’s literally just going to level it left to right so I’ve got a little spirit level here I’m just going to pop on a bit of the project that I’m a humanist what I’m only doing it roughly is a minute because this might change when I tighten the side books right but that’s level now I can’t find anything the instruction set that says whether or not this has to be level that way so I think what I’ll .

do I’ll just set it our federate level that’s but then I might have to adjust it afterwards I’m not sure supposed to do  so it’s pretty solid got going on are we screwing it up we have millions of screws with this process so good ok maybe I should have tighten those screws before right ok so basically it’s all fine but I didn’t realize that these screws under here on tight so I’m going to have to just take out it’s just the front back screw.

that I need thank I’ve got a screwdriver that’ll fix that gap of those I’m going to take all this off which I don’t really want to do  that’s nice and tight now while I’m at this actually just check all of these and siding yeah yeah that’s better these screws button that’s more or less it so all I would say you know this bracket as I say it cost 10 quid the HDMI cable cost 10 quid and the HDMI splitter up in customer 10 quid as well so it’s close to 30 quid in materials to do this job plenty people would advise you to spend maybe 150 quid on a bracket and another hundred and fifty quid on a cable and another hundred quid on a splitter spend that money on a better .

projector and so all I would say but all your money for getting the best projector you can and don’t waste it on crazily expensive brackets and cables you know maybe you might buy a cheap bracket that doesn’t do the job in ten quid worse off this bracket is absolutely fine and I don’t think we’ll have any problems with that whatsoever and the most fun bit of the whole job obviously a little bit one remote sensor lens cut off leave that there for now I make sure take .

you through setting it off right booth right let’s say connect it all up and show you what’s involved here so I’ve got me HDMI splitter and it’s a bit dark in this corner but it’s just behind where the amp is dusty and as I say the splitter needs power and there’s weak little power thing for the splitter that’s a split myself I’m not going to plug it in until of wired it up and basically like we just return the unblock so yeah that’s the out so basically this this HDMI currently goes into the telly and we still want that to go into the telly so that’s going to go into output 1 there and then I need a .

shortage there my cable which I’ve got one somewhere this is gone from the back of me amp so the output or it could be the back of your Playstation or whatever you’re feeding your projector with so this little short cable is coming from output to your input on your splitter might be getting power of the HDMI maybe it doesn’t need the power things we shall find out since we get in power with no power plugged in we shall see if it works and now we’ve got the big HDMI cable and I’m just going to temporarily plug that in as I say do the cheap cable I’m not going to be I don’t want. 

to get entangled or twisted off BAM anything that’s likely to to break it so I’ve got one end going into the splitter this is coming out of output two on the splitter to feed the projector and then the other end will go into the projector so let me move the camera I’m only temporarily hooking everything up just to prove everything works and this video .

won’t be showing tidying the cables up and running cable through wall what I would suggest you do is you pay your local Sparky to come along and put the socket behind the projector and a socket behind your projector screen that will make life infinitely easier and if you ask them nicely I’m sure he’ll run an eighth HDMI cable up the wall for you at the same time I can’t see anything on the bottom it  HDMI one is over on this side yeah  and then .

another say the minute I’m just temporarily hooping the power of just to check everything words we have a pro alight alright spiral if they have never used it before I have no idea how to use it doesn’t want any of this stuff then stick assuming nothing to zoom and focus like warmed-up do its do every coffee so yet so just to briefly talk about the cables I’ve already checked and I’ve got a nice route down this wall that I can take the cables through every wall is. 

different there’s no point really including anything in this video about how to route the cables because that in itself in some cases can be a really big job in this case it’s really easy cuz I can just push them through the wall so as I say get your Sparky to put a socket like here so that you can just neatly plug it in straight behind projector and then have another like an HDMI outlet or something like that or a brush place so you can run the HDMI cable through just a .